FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: What exactly is a septic tank?
A: The septic tank is a large container usually buried near the home that receives all of the waste water. Solids settle to the bottom and grease and lighter solids float on the top. Healthy bacteria continually break down these materials and allow effluent water to leave the tank to be dispersed through the leach field. If the water has sludge present, the system is in shut down mode, (failure).
Q: Where is my septic tank located?
A: The septic tank is usually buried near your house and connected by a sewer pipe to your indoor plumbing. You can find the pipe in the basement, usually 3 to 4 inches in diameter, very carefully remove the end cap and determine the direction of the pipe that leads out to your yard. You can use a flashlight to look through the pipe and a tape to measure the distance to the tank. With this information, you can estimate the location of the tank and then probe carefully with a shovel or iron digging rod to locate the four corners of the septic tank lid and its probable depth.
Q: Are all septic tanks the same size?
A: No. Septic tanks are sold in a number of sizes for various applications. If you do not have accurate building or installation records, the tank needs to be uncovered and measured to be sure of its size. Or, your knowledgeable pumping contractor can give you a good estimate.
Q: Are all septic tanks made of the same material?
A: No. Sptic tanks can be made of steel, concrete, or special long-lasting polymer plastic. Steel has no guarantee and deteriorates over time from wastewater, salts and acids, concrete usually has only a one-year maximum factory guarantee and also deteriorates over time from wastewater, salts and acids. The newer polymer septic tanks are guaranteed for many years and are not subject to the deterioration effects of wastewater, salts or acids. Always select the system that gets you the manufacturer’s guarantee that will last the longest when properly installed.
Q: Do septic tanks last forever?
A: No. Deterioration of both the steel and concrete type of septic tank begins immediately. Polymer tanks last the longest and without physical abuse should serve you well for many, many years. Concrete is porous and cracks by nature. Salts and chemicals are the major factors in deterioration of concrete and metal tanks.
Q: What should go into my septic tank?
A: The best situation for a long, happy septic tank life would be that only human wastewater enters the tank. This includes bathroom sink waste and proper toilet tissue. This however, is seldom the case. People often put anything and everything down sinks, drains and toilets. In moderation, a properly working septic tank can handle some biodegradable detergents, laundry soaps, kitchen wastes and biodegradable household chemicals. In large amounts, any and all of these things can limit the digestive properties of your septic tank. A good rule of thumb: “If you didn’t, couldn’t, wouldn’t eat it, don’t put it in the septic tank!”
Q: What should not go in to my septic tank?
A: Things like cigarette butts, disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, plastics, any other trash, or high levels of cleaning agents or chemicals create problems for your septic tank. Some things kill the good bacteria the septic tank needs to breakdown human waste. Other items do not readily decompose and more importantly, may clog the baffles and prevent proper fluid flow inside the septic tank. Basically, non-biodegradable products are non-septic products.
Q: How can you tell if my septic tank is working?
A: Visual inspection of your backyard for standing waste water where the leach field should be, or unusual odors might indicate a problem. Otherwise, visual inspection of the septic tank is the first means of checking. Clarity of the effluent water leaving the outlet baffle is most important. Checking and measuring the depths of the sludge, liquid center and top scum level is also important. Checking the temperature and pH of the tank adds more information of the health of the septic tank. Risers on the ports of the lid allow for frequent inspection. Proper pH is a must. Take the reading inside the outlet baffle.
Q: How often should my septic tank be pumped?
A: Your septic tank should be pumped every two to three years OR when the total depth of sludge and scum exceeds one third of the depth of the tank. Pumping regularly is cost effective because it extends the life of your leach field which would be a major expense to repair or replace.
Q: Is there anything I should add to my septic tank?
A: Understanding the science of septic dictates what and how much of any additive should be used. New bio-solutions provide greater breakdown of human wastewater and can be formulated to deal with other products found in the septic system to produce a more environmentally safer effluent water to be discharged through your leach field. A reputable dealer trained in these new bio-solutions can offer you more information and provide a maintenance program for implementation.
Q: Should there be access to the top of my septic tank?
A:Yes. In order to inspect and maintain your septic tank, access to the inlet and outlet ports is a must. Risers and childproof access lids can easily be installed to ground level to provide for easy access.
Q: Can I build over my septic tank?
A: It is not recommended ever to build over the septic tank. Access to the tank is necessary for inspection and maintenance. Anything built over the tank would have to be removed for pumping and repairs. Additionally, the weight of anything built over a septic tank could damage the unit. The gasses that might escape are very harmful to people and in a worse case scenario could actually be explosive causing damage to the house and foundation.
SEPTIC SYSTEM DO’S & DON’TS
SEPTIC DO’S
The contents of the septic tank should be pumped every two to three years or when the total depth of sludge and scum exceeds one-third of the liquid depth of the tank. If the tank is not cleaned periodically, the solids are carried into the absorption field; rapid clogging occurs; premature failure follows and finally, the absorption field must be replaced. Pumping your septic tank is less expensive than replacing your absorption field.
Detergents, kitchen wastes, laundry wastes and household chemicals in normal amounts do not affect the proper operation of household sewage treatment systems. However, excessive quantities can be harmful.
Avoid the disposal of cigarette butts, disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, plastics, trash, etc., into your household sewage system. These items are not readily decomposed.
Septic tank additives are not recommended. Additives are unnecessary to the proper operation of household systems and may cause the sludge and scum in the septic tank to be discharged into the absorption field, resulting in premature failure. Some additives may actually pollute groundwater.
Avoid garbage grinders. Garbage grinders substantially increase the accumulation of solids in the septic tank, as well as the solids entering the absorption fields and pits. Their disadvantages outweigh the convenience they provide and are not recommended for households with their own sewage treatment systems. If used, the septic tank size should be increased.
Connecting your laundry wastes to a separate waste system (dry well or seepage pit), while not normally necessary, will reduce the load on the regular system and permit the survival of a marginal system.
All roof, cellar and footing drainage, and surface water must be excluded from the system. This drainage water can be discharged to the ground surface without treatment; make sure it drains away from your sewage treatment system.Roof downspouts should not drain toward the absorption field.
Backwash from water softeners contains salt that can damage your absorption field. Discharge this waste to a separate system or to the ground surface away from your well and valuable vegetation.
Don’t plant trees around your leach field. Roots from trees in the immediate area of the absorption lines may clog the system.
Keep swimming pools (above or in-ground) away from the absorption field.
SEPTIC DON’TS
These things NEVER go in a septic system:
Footing Drain and Ground Water and Sump Pumps
Gutter or floor drains
Non-Biodegradable Products – chemicals and solids (tampons, cigarette butts, condoms, or other similar items, hair, bandages, rags, strings, coffee grounds or cereals).
Paper towels and handy wipes; no matter what the box or manufacturer, etc. says!
No anti-bacterial soaps – Biodegradable soaps only! Do not use what is called “biocompatible soaps”.
Heavy dose and long-term use of Mr. Bubbles/Dow’s spray toilet cleaner or any other excessively strong cleaner.
Water conditioning backwashes / discharge from water softener, & purifier, sanitizer or conditioners
Dehumidifiers and air conditioner discharges
Chlorine and chemicals in excess (1 part chlorine 5 parts of water is a good spray bacteria cleaner)
Hot tubs and jacuzzi discharges
Excessive laundry – loads should be spaced out (one day of doing all laundry is a No No!)
Water from leaking fixtures including sneaky leaky toilets. Remember to dye test the toilet often to check for leaks in septic system
Dirt and inert products (muddy clothes and vegetables should be dusted off before washing) this applies to common senses in maintaining all types of septic systems
Chemicals from x-ray equipment discharges, even if diluted because they will re-condense in disposal system and eventually pollute the underground environment which is illegal!
Disposable baby wipes / diapers / hand and facial wipes – NO MATTER WHAT MANUFACTURER SAYS, DON’T PUT THEM IN; DISPOSE OF THEM IN A GARBAGE CAN!
Hard toilet paper – use only soft toilet paper, they are closer to breaking down
Dead fish or small animals – REMEMBER, it’s a septic tank, not a cemetery.
Garbage disposal units discharge; if you must have one then it must run through a separate tank first. This is called a trash tank. After it is installed it should discharge into the septic tank or a separate leaching system and not directly to the existing leaching system
Hair conditioners with heavy oils – if you use them, we need to know so we can do something to compensate with added or different bacteria (none if they are not bio-degradable).
Latex, plastic or metallic objects – (If you haven’t, wouldn’t or couldn’t eat it – Don’t throw it in septic tank system!)